The crystal horizon Everest, the first solo ascent by Messner Reinhold 1944- aut (DE-101)118581392

Author:Messner, Reinhold 1944- aut (DE-101)118581392
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Sports & Recreation, Mountaineers, Italy, Sports, Mountaineering, Everest, Mount (China and Nepal), 1944-, Biography, Messner, Reinhold, , Messner, Reinhold, 1944-, Bergsteigen, Travel
Publisher: Seattle Mountaineers
Published: 1990-08-05T16:00:00+00:00

Mount Everest from the east

The unci imbed East Face of Everest.

Stuck in the Monsoon Snow

On the first clear day I climb to the foot of the Chang La face to examine the conditions. I can see far to the east, as far as the Kangchenjunga group. The distant, glistening mountain chain looks like lines of clouds. The horizon dissolves. Today I want to go further but I know that I am still too tense, too uncertain. Fear is like a clenched fist. Only an open hand needs no energy. At present I lack the inner harmony. I need so much strength to thrust aside all the possible dangers of a solo ascent which fill my mind.

Only when the stream of these fears*-dries up can I set out! Naturally it is easy to upbraid oneself to master these fears and not to be ruled by them. But to completely switch off, to eliminate all thoughts, is so difficult! To let oneself go and at the same time be as alert as a cat, that is the art. Perhaps I need only block out the climb to the summit from the start in order to be able to live in harmony? Does that not already lie behind me - proofs, recognition, conquest of self? Not the flags on the summit, the document - I don't mean these proofs. They are only superficial. What stops me from enjoying life is the compulsion to prove to myself, to everyone, that Mount Everest can be climbed alone.

I am a fool who with his longing for love and tenderness runs up cold mountains.

But I still have the excuse that the weather is too warm, the weather too bad! While Nena writes or cooks, I stare steadfastly at the topmost point of Everest.

Nena feels what is going on within me:

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